Muslining (?) and new projects

So, dear sewist-bloggers this is what I´ve working on this week (not very much I must admit):


This Vogue pattern was sent to me as a part of the Crafty class I´m enrolled in: The Couture Dress by Susan Khalje. A litle bit beyond my possibilities as a seamstress, but I strongly recommend it: it´s nice to see how sewing is properly done.

I´ve working in the muslin of the bodice and I have already put it together with some minor problems:

1. The middriff, which is cut on the bias has turned out a little bigger than the bodice´s upper parts, so I had to shirr-ruch some fabric in order to match seams. I swear I cut the right size for every piece, size 10, but may be the fact that is bias-cut has stretched out the fabric along the manipulation?

2. Couture sewing involves a huge amount of time, but it´s evry second worth it, a least for me, because I find tracing and cutting as interesting as machine sewing the dress. Learning to enjoy all the proccess is great and allows you to chose wich tecniques to use when sewing a particular garment.

3. Princess seam in the bodice has been kind of a nightmare to flatten and iron, until I looked the thrifted handmade dress I bought and came across the solution. What is, clipping the seams at the curved seams. —>beginner´s discoverings that gets you a lot of satisfaction.

You can see a review of his pattern here (note how beautifully matched the plaid is). I realize now that Kimp had the same problem with the middriff, but no hint of how she fixed it up.

As far as today, this is how it looks:


the puffy bodice

I haven´t received the tripod I ordered, so here it is the chair modeling the bodice and the blurry picture. All that puffiness is to be full with my “naturals”. I don´t understand why the front middriff piece is divided, I might redo it in one for the real dress.

So, I went on fabric shopping yesterday morning, not for this specific pattern, but messing around with remnants and scraps, and I found this two beatiful printed lycras for 10 euros:

8da1ebd2dbed11e2992f22000a1fb823_7 ae8ea6aadbed11e2ba9922000a1f9c9a_7

Don´t you find them a bit 50´s looking? The pics are not showing, but they are pretty brilliant colours. I love them! Any guess of what I have in mind? 🙂

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24 Responses to Muslining (?) and new projects

  1. I am in the middle of this Craftsy course. Few days ago the pattern arrive so I can start practical part now. I will follow your progress. Wich fabric will you use for this dress? I

    • cristina says:

      Well, first of all I want to ask Susan why my midriff came out bigger than my bodice. Then, depending on the answer, I might choose not to put the pieces on the bias, as I have ease enough in this part of the bodice, and reduce the two front pieces to one. I like the idea of making a winter dress, so softwool it is. What about you? Have you cut the pieces yet?

      • First I want to finish my summer dress. I know which fabric I will choose – simple pattern. I think I will cut the midriff not on bias – at least not in this dress.
        I have to say I enjoy the Susan class – I have watched it again… lovely…
        The bias midriff of Susan’s dress appeard to be larger as well… she just take a little more fabric.
        I am curious your next steps 🙂

  2. It looks like you’re doing just fine – I don’t think it’s beyond your capabilities. It’s recommended to iron princess seams over a dressmaker’s ham, which is a stuffed form for ironing curves. Are you happy with the fit of the muslin bodice?

  3. eumoronorio says:

    Bias is such a pain isn’t it? Bias cut pieces always grow. The best way to deal is cut those pieces with a large seam allowance and let them hang from the top for about 8-12 hours, which lets the fibers relax. Then repin the pattern pieces to the fabric (oops forgot to mention to carefully mark grainlines) matching grainlines and recut as necessary. You really don’t want to stretch the bais pieces or your straight grain pieces to fit together since that will distort your final dress Same goes for any pattern cut on the bias. I had one skirt with curved contrast pieces that grew on the bias but not on the straight grain, so I had to recut the skirt before hemming it. I hope that helps! I loved watching Susan K sew up her plaid dress! I have yet to cut mine >.< I look forward to seeing how your's goes together.

    • cristina says:

      Wow! that´s so smart!Thanks a lot, I will keep the advice…which fabric will you use for your dress?

      • eumoronorio says:

        I’m glad I could help. I love sewing and I’m always learning something new too!
        I bought a Marc Jacobs beige, purple and black silk and wool plaid blend. Here’s a photo:
        I plan on making a gathered skirt and 3/4 length sleeves, which is a little different from the pattern but I’m thinking I don’t want the plaid to curve strangely like it would with the included circle skirt pattern.
        I have never worked with plaid before, so I’ve been procrastinating (nerves of a wet noodle here). I don’t want to ruin my pretty fabric =)

  4. cristina says:

    Hello Lisa! Well, as far as I can reach, that is, the front of my body, it fits nicely. May be I´ll have to shorten the shoulders´ heigth, as they fall down a little bit. The back, I can´t tell. I need someone helping me, or try to figure out how to place mirrors to get to see it. That´s tough, fitting on yourself, I wonder how the girls manage to do it. As for the tailor´s ham, I want to make one. Tilly has a tutorial and I only have to buy that hamster´s soil or whatever to fill it. Yeaaah, I love DIY… Thanks for reading!

  5. Love this pattern. Can’t wait to see how it sews up 🙂

  6. Gjeometry says:

    That course sounds interesting, I think I may take it, good to know you strongly recommend it! Can’t wait to see the dress sewn up.

    • cristina says:

      Yes, it is gorgeus. I mean, if you are an experimented sewist, may be it doesn´t add much to your skills. However, after reading some reviews, it seems everybody learnt something new. 🙂

      • Even if you are an experience sewist there are a lot of handy tips in this course and it is nice to know that you are doing correct way 🙂
        I love this course! Susan is great tutor/teacher – she present the less materials is a very userfriendly way 🙂 Do it Gjeometry! 🙂

  7. cristina says:

    Eumoronorio I love your fabric! and yes, plaid sounds like an expert can manage it, but not me! So you are making a skirt that is not in the pattern. Yo don´t like the straight one ? That view in two colours dark and light must be very flattering, may be I´ll go for it…

    • eumoronorio says:

      My fav view is D/E. I like the high-waisted look of the circle skirt in black with the sleeveless contrast top, but I would have to buy more fabric…oh darn =D I tend to run around with my son (he’s 2) and straight skirts feel limiting though I just reworked a straight skirt with extra ease, so we’ll see if I change my mind after I sew it up. They are so flattering. As for the circle skirt, it wouldn’t line up with plaid. I want to muslin up both skirts because this dress looks like it will make a great flattering basic that I can use over and over.
      PS: Your one plaid looks like the Vogue sample fabric for the V1353 Kay Unger dress. Very pretty!
      PPS: I’ve nominated you for a blogger award for all your awesomeness! Check it out:

  8. Pingback: For me? How awesome! | Sewing for Me!

  9. grtescp says:

    it sounds like you are having a lot of fun with the course, I am not patient enough for projects like that, I like quick and easy projects 🙂
    I love the lycra fabrics you found, such fabulous patterns!
    … and because I enjoy your blog so much, I have nominated you for the super sweet blogging award: – hope you don’t mind 🙂

  10. auntychacha says:

    Can’t wait to see how you progress with this. I’m also enrolled in this class but progress has been very slow! Need to stop working and just focus on sewing!

  11. I enrolled in this Craftsy course as well, over a year ago now! And I have not made the dress 😀 Shame on me >)

  12. cristina says:

    Juanita, I haven´t finished the muslin yet! 🙂 It´s a great course anyway, I have learnt a lot. The dress turns out beautiful in the course, but I don´t feel like constructing something with so many pieces.I have to go slowly… 🙂

  13. I made it!! says:

    I have just purchased this course. I have to finish my “pants” course first though before I start on this one! How did your’s turn out? Did you blog about the finished dress because I would love to see it!

    • cristina says:

      Hi! I never finished the dress 🙂 too many seams for a beginner… I learn´t a lot from the course, Susan is wonderful and it is clear that she loves what she does. I can´t recommend this course enough!

  14. I made it!! says:

    I do love the dress pattern too though. I would probably have bought it in the store even if I didn’t get it for the course. Maybe someday it will get finished. We get better and better with everything we do!

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